from Venice to Treviso, things to do like a local

Treviso has been my beautiful, welcoming and green home for the last 4 years. Take a look at my city guide to live and love Treviso as much as I’ve done !

Treviso has been my beautiful, welcoming and green home for the last 4 years. Living inside its ancient city walls allowed me to discover and appreciate this treasure, everyday under different sunlights, seasons or occasions.

Leaving Treviso broke my heart. So, I decided to write this guide to permit at all the people I will meet on my way to show them with pride: “I come from Treviso!” and not the old “I come from Venice” (just because it is known internationally). I believe that after reading these lines you cannot wait to come and spend a day here and maybe plan a visit around Veneto region.

Cattedrale di San Pietro Apostolo, Duomo di Treviso.

If you’re around the area, it is likely because Venice is on the top of your travel bucket list. Whatever the case may be, consider taking a day-trip to the gorgeous town of Treviso (from the latin Tarvisium) located just 30 kilometers out from Venice. ProseccoTiramisù and much more are waiting for you!

From Venice to Treviso

Are you coming from Venice? Buy a train ticket from the Venice Train Station for the small price of 3.45€. It will take you 30/40 minutes. Otherwise, if you land directly from Treviso Airport, a bus line will take you straight at the historical city center in 10 minutes.

Treviso, Historical City Center.
Piazza San Vito, Treviso.

Go Downtown (inside Treviso’s city walls)

Treviso is an ancient city surrounded by defensive fortifications, guard towers and gates. Many of these are still in good condition protecting the heart of the city, its precious historical center. This ancient town has its roots in a religious tradition that preserves the city’s architecture including some of the oldest churches and surviving monasteries in town.

Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore, Treviso.
Madona Granda – Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, Treviso.
Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore, Treviso.

The italian poet Dante Alighieri talked about Treviso, saying: 

the place where the Sile and the Cagnan go hand in hand

because the two rivers run inside the historical center and canals carrying water through the city.

Canto IX: (Third Heaven: Sphere of Venus) in Dante Alighieri’s Paradiso.

Enjoy walking through the streets and lose yourself in the same way it could happen in Venice. Get enchanted by the hidden waterways and magical glimpses

Quartiere Latino, Treviso.
Riviera Santa Margherita, Treviso.
Giardinetti di Sant’Andrea, Riviera Santa Margherita, Treviso.
Riviera Santa Margherita, Treviso.
Giardinetti di Sant'Andrea, Treviso.
Giardinetti di Sant’Andrea, Treviso.

 

Passing under the arcades of the historical buildings, don’t forget to look up: you’ll see fragments of the painted frescoes that once decorated Treviso.

Treviso urbs picta. Frescoed facades of the city from the 13th to the 21st century.

Walking outside the city walls, it would be easy admire at Porta San Tomaso and Porta Santi Quaranta, two of the most beautiful preserved gatehouses.

 You can walk on quite a long stretch of the northern ramparts for more than a kilometre. 

Into Treviso’s heart – explore its historical city centre

Let’s start from the main square: Piazza dei Signori. From here, you can reach every part of the city center in 10 minutes by foot. Palazzo dei Trecento (that overlooks Piazza dei Signori) was and still is the seat of the municipal council, as well as a prestigious venue for holding exhibitions. 

Piazza dei Signori, Treviso.
Piazza dei Signori, Treviso.
 Palazzo dei Trecento, Treviso.
Palazzo dei Trecento, Treviso.

Fontana delle Tette

From sacred to profane: the boobs’ fountain. Yes, boobs. We call it Fontana delle Tette and its original version dates back to 1559 and is guarded in a glass case under the Palazzo dei Trecento. In ancient times, when a new mayor for the city of Treviso was elected the fountain flowed with free wine. Red wine streamed from one breast while white wine poured from the other, enough to supply a three-day of party. Sadly, the new version of the fountain brings out water and not wine.

Treviso’s Duomo is undoubtedly the most impressive structure in the city and is crowned with five huge green domes.

View from Lazzari Store, Treviso.

The cathedral is located in the northern part of the historic town centre and is easily reached by foot from the Piazza dei Signori, walking along “Il Calmaggiore” – the main street of the city. In the Middle Ages the road symbolically connected the two centers of power, the cathedral (seat of spiritual power) and Palazzo della Signoria (Palazzo dei Trecento, center of temporal power).

If you love to take a look at Treviso’s ancient churches some worth seeing are: Chiesa di San Francesco (where Petrarch’s daughter and Dante’s son sleep in their stone beds) and Chiesa di San Nicolò.

Treviso’s porticos.

From Spritz to Tiramisù: local places for tasty experiences

Good news: Treviso is not a tourist-trap like Venice. Here you’re safe and will not end up in any terrible tourist restaurants or in tacky or bullying tourist shops. No crazy prices, no stress.

Let’s start from the breakfast. Where to have breakfast in Treviso? No doubts: at Giardino Bistrot. A little, tiny place run by a couple always sweet and kind. I’ve never tasted a better cappuccino foam and their homemade pies are delicious. Honestly there is no better way to start a day in Treviso! In the city center there are another couple of patisseries that I love to visit because they’re still the same despite the years that have passed. Ones that certainly deserve to be seen: Pasticceria Francia (since 1946) and La Casa del Dolce. Don’t expect a banal scandinavian design, here you can breathe passion, history and tradition.

Pasticceria Francia. Borgo Cavalli, Treviso.

And if you get hungry before lunch? Let’s have a glass of wine and a cicchetto (or a mozzarella in carrozza!). During the weekend it’s pretty normal to wake up late not wanting the same sweet breakfast. Many times, right before lunch (from 11:00 to 12:30 am) I used to go with friends or family in one of the several old fashion “osterie” in town and drink an ombra de vin accompanied by one (or many!) cicchetti before lunch.

Via Paris Bordone, Treviso.

Entering at Vecia Hosteria Dai Naneti you are overwhelmed by the classic aromas of smoked meats. Perfect place where you can find food products typical of our places. Drop by for a glass of wine and some cold cuts and cheese before heading off to lunch or dinner.

Vecia Hosteria dai Naneti, Treviso.

Osteria dalla Gigia is a must. An obligatory stop when in Treviso. Order a mozzarella in carrozza, with ham an cheese or with anchovies. Drink a Cedrata. You are on your way to becoming a trevisan! 

Osteria dalla Gigia, Treviso.

Another glass of wine and the best porchetta-sandwich in town in Osteria All’Antico Pallone. During the Radicchio-period you can try also a porchetta and radicchio sandwich, or the one with lard. If you love tramezzini, here you can find the famous tramezzino with celery and gorgonzola cheese!

Osteria All’Antico Pallone, Treviso.

If you are very hungry, you should go at Osteria Canova! Here you can create your sandwich with everything inside (and when I say everything I mean EVERYTHING). The largest sandwich you will cost you a max 6€. Waiting times are usually long, but it’s worth it!

Wondering where to eat lunch or dinner in Treviso?

Affordable lunches and dinners are everywhere. Here is a list of my favorite places. If you don’t know where to start, follow the rule of “When in doubt, eat pizza!” and in my experience,  PIOLA is the best Pizzeria in town! When I want to eat in the typical taverns I go to Trattoria Toni del Spin (they also manage an enoteca, right in front), Osteria Cae de Oro and Trattoria all’Antico Portico

Trattoria Toni del Spin, Treviso.
Enoteca Toni del Spin, Treviso.

They all offered a plethora of local specialties as pasta e fasioi (pasta and beans), risotto with radicchio and various types of fresh pasta such as bigoli, gnocchi and tagliatelle. Among the second courses try the sopa coada, asparagus with hard-boiled eggs, frittata con sciopetti (omelette with strikes). If you prefer fish, you surely appreciate sturgeon and trout cooked in different ways.

Treviso.

I also have my special place where I mainly go for the best italian burgers in town and where I laugh so much that I get a stomach ache, this happens at TVBurger, right in front of Porta San Tomaso.

If you are looking for a pic-nic spot, there is a pleasant stroll along part of the city ramparts, dotted with benches. If I can recommend something to eat (not in a restaurant) you should definitely try the divine tartare made by Macelleria Stecca, historic butchery in Borgo Cavour.

If you also love to drink and you’re searching to spend a nice evening, I have several tips for you: Ai Soffioni and Birretteria for the best craft beers. There’s three nice places that can welcome you from the happy hour to late evening. I will suggest you Dump for its five-euros gin tonic and live music. Eden Cafè for the beautiful atmosphere, tasty menus and sought live music. Not so far from the city center, you need to spend an evening at Home Rock Bar, the Treviso’s Rock Cathedral! They are the organizers of HOME FESTIVAL. Last but not least, till late night Cloackroom Cocktail Lab is waiting for you to taste the best cocktails in town. A suggestion: don’t ask for a Spritz! 😉

Now, here’s a little cherry for your sundae.

Why everyone has heard of Treviso at least once in their lives? Surely for the Prosecco, but don’t forget the sweetest part; Treviso claim to being the birthplace of the dessert of all desserts: Tiramisù. Since 1969, the owner of Le Beccherie, combined savoiardi dipped in coffee, mascarpone cheese, sugar, cocoa powder and egg yolks, formed into an unassuming layered cake. You will be happy to discover that Treviso hosts the Tiramisù World Cup

Tiramisù at Ristorante Le Beccherie, Treviso.

Just, please, don’t eat Tiramisù while you’re drinking an Aperol Spritz, because it’s not part of the local experience and quite honestly… is disgusting!

City walk through Treviso and along Sile river

The best way to practice the art of getting lost is to wander aimlessly: just head out in a particular direction and walk until you get lost, Treviso’s city walls are limit. Nothing else to say, you will surely come across some interesting places.

Giovanni Comisso (italian writer born and dead in Treviso) once wrote that Isola della Pescheria (Treviso’s fish market):

was held on the small island on the Cagnan and was the most charming fish market in the world, floating on the water

Isola della Pescheria, Treviso.
Isola della Pescheria, Treviso.

The Island of the Pescheria was created in the second half of the 1800s by joining three islets in the river. Here, everyday numerous stalls offer fresh fish. Don’t miss the rest of the market! Every Tuesday and Saturday morning, little further north-east, between Piazzale Burchiellati, Piazza Matteotti and Piazza del Grano. Stop at Tavernetta Butterfly for a delicious fish-cicchetto. This restaurant reminds me the ones in Venice, in fact is famous for its delicious seafood dishes. Short chain products are also sold every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday morning near Riviera Santa Margherita, take a walk here and in the Latin quarter.

Canale dei Buranelli, Treviso.

Don’t miss Canale dei Buranelli – named after a family of merchants from Burano Island lived along this watercourse in the 1500s. 

Canale dei Buranelli, Treviso.
Via Sant’Andrea, Treviso.

Treviso.





If you rent a bike don’t miss a ride in Restera, the road that connects Treviso to the sea, it is green, full of animals and dotted with murales.

Restera, Treviso.
Restera, Treviso.
Restera, Treviso.

Follow it until you reach Osteria da Nea, in Silea. If you like walking it’s also easy to enjoy by foot. Enjoy a plate of fried fish (the house specialty) with a white wine, better looking at the sunset. Sports enthusiasts can also rent a canoe or a kayak. I did it and I loved it!

Fountain in Via Oriani, Treviso.
Murales in Restera, Treviso.
Murales in Restera, Treviso.

Exhibits, museums and places of interest in Treviso

Among the civic museums of Treviso we find Bailo Museum, Cà da Noal – Casa Robegan and Santa Caterina in which are held temporary exhibitions. At the Luigi Bailo Civic Museum you can find a collection of art and archaeology dedicated to art collections from Impressionism to the Avant-gardes. 

Museo Collezione Salce, Treviso. 

Museo Collezione Salce, Treviso.

Don’t miss TRA – Treviso Ricerca ArteCa dei CarraresiCentro Carlo Scarpa and my favorite ones: Museo Collezione SalceFondazione Benetton studi e ricercheGalleria delle prigioni and B#S Gallery that proposes contemporary (visual and sensory) art exhibitions. If you love art and design in all its various forms, take a look at M1KA market place.

Galleria delle prigioni, Treviso.

Even though it’s not in Treviso city center (but in Castrette di Villorba) you can’t miss a visit at Fabrica, the  communications research centre established in 1994 by Luciano Benetton and Oliviero Toscani. The centre aims to combine culture with industry and offers young people the opportunity for creative growth and multicultural, multidisciplinary interchange. Fabica is opened at the public just in occasion of specific events and conferences.

Fabrica Research Centre, Treviso.
Fabrica Research Centre, Treviso.

I leave you with the photos of my favorite spots in town and the sunset from my rooftop. I hope you’re gonna live and love Treviso as much as I’ve done in these years!

Ponte Malvasia, Treviso.

Malvasia, Treviso.

Via San Leonardo, Treviso.

Via Sant'Agata, Treviso.

Golden Hour in Treviso.
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